The beauty standard for women during the Victorian era was very focused on clear porcelain skin and rosy cheeks - with special emphasis on discreet use of cosmetics. This is because there was a stigma surrounding makeup, and it was considered inappropirate for a woman to wear it. Queen Victoria herself declared that makeup was 'impolite' and worn by actresses and ladies with low morals. Men during this time were especially scornful towards women who wore visible makeup - it was considered deceptive. The use of cosmetics was linked with disease, prostitution, and criminal activity. The portrait is of a red-lipped Laura Bell, who was known as "The Queen of London Whoredom."
Victorian people were know for physiognomy, which means they judged a person's character based on their facial features. For example, freckles or blemishes on a face were indicative of an ill-tempered person or a past misdeed. Face cream and white powder was used to conceal this - even Queen Victoria occasionally used it herself. Eyelashes were darkened using burnt herbs or soot mixed with an oil. Brows were plucked into natural arches. Cheek stains and rouge, however, were frowned upon. The same went for lip stains, although a salve was perfectly acceptable. Chapped lips and other facial flaws were considered unsightly, but so was visible makeup. Victorian women were expected to be beautiful, so they risked their reputations daily to use makeup carefully.
Works Cited:
Team, H&MUA, and Name *. “Women's Victorian Makeup: An Overview.” Hair & Makeup Artist Handbook, 14 July 2021, https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-victorian-makeup/.
“Victorian Makeup Guide & Beauty History.” Vintage Dancer, https://vintagedancer.com/victorian/victorian-makeup-beauty-guide/.